Misc. Climbing, Summer & Fall 2008

Since Aaron and I were working on our house all summer and fall (and winter etc), we didn't climb much. Two memorable trips were a summer swing through the Sierras (on the way to my brother's wedding) and a Thanksgiving trip to Cochise. Once every month or so, we made it out to our local crag, Diablo.

In the Sierras, we met up with Ed and climbed a route called "Dragway" on a formation called the Dragtooth. It's in the Sawtooth range above Bridgeport. The route itself is only 5 pitches but the day continues on with a traverse across the formation before you can descend the gully between the Matterhorn and the Dragtooth. Secor's book calls the traverse "endless." After the long traverse, the gully turned out to be tricky too. We rappelled in two places where there were no stations to rappel, since I was freaked out by the slippery steepness of it all. In once case we left gear, in the other, we slung a block.

After the scary gully, you might imagine the descent was pretty much over. Alas, after the scary gully came a scary descent down a steepish snow patch. (You can't see the existence of this snow patch before climbing---it's hidden in a different drainage from where you hike up the route. The long traverse takes you there.) As it was near the end of the day, the snow patch wasn't pure ice, but it wasn't slush either. I found it scary, though I think I was the only one who did. I took a rock in each hand to self arrest if necessary.

The climbing on the Dragway was great, the descent was long and gnarly, and the day was great--it reminded me of how much I miss the Sierras!


The Dragway


Ed hiking in to the Sawtooths. We hiked up one afternoon, camped, did the route and hiked out the next day.


Amy hiking. (Photo: Aaron.)


The mountains reflected in a pool of water.


The Dragtooth. The route ascends the buttress on the right and traverses the ridge.


The whole ridge.


Ed heading out into the sunshine.


Aaron on the wide pitch. While I had been fearful of this 5.10 offwidth pitch, it was surprisingly not that bad.


Aaron at the end of the fifth class climbing.


Looking down another ridge nearby.


Ed joining us at the top.


Amy and Ed (in the distance) simuling the fourth class traverse.


Ed looking back along the ridge.


Aaron and Amy at the high point on the traverse.


Diablo Canyon


When Elliott and Jon came to town, we actually got out climbing! Woohoo! Here's Elliott on a fun 5.11, with Jon belaying and Aaron watching.


Cochise for Thanksgiving

We met up with Charles, Chris, Vivian, and Ed for a fun but much too short Thanksgiving trip to "Cochise." You can find Charles's pictures here and Vivian's here.


Aaron, Viv, and Ed heading down an arroyo.


On Aaron's and my first day there, we climbed at the Jimmy Cliffs. Here's Ed on "Friendly Hands."


We wandered over to the Arid Piles later in the day.


Aaron getting on something called "Napkin of Shame."


Aaron checking the guidebook.


On our second day, we hiked up to the Emerald City area.


Viv checking out the rock. I ran out of camera batteries soon after, so I don't have any more pictures from this trip.


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