Black Canyon of the Gunnison, March 19-21, 2009
Aaron and I embarked on what was to be a week-and-a-half road trip through Colorado and Utah, beginning with the Black Canyon, continuing with a ski hut trip on Red Mountain Pass, and ending with a few days in Indian Creek. The first two destinations were perfect, but we didn't make it to Utah, since the weather forecast looked horrible.
In the Black, we did some shorter routes (it was my first time there, and I was nervous about committing to something huge) in gorgeous weather. The place was nearly empty, as it was very early in the season---the North Rim campground was not even open---but the days were so warm that it was almost too hot to climb in the sun.
We did the routes "Casually Off," "A Midsummer Night's Dream," and "Checkerboard Wall." The first of those, "Casually Off," was NOT a good choice for an early season climb: it was soaking wet. It was also one of the worst routes I've done anywhere....but maybe my opinion was clouded by the fact that it was wet. Aaron liked it well enough. The other two routes got more sun and were in perfect condition.
The cat cruising around while I'm packing for the road trip.
We spent the first night at Danika's place and continued on to the Black that day.
We arrived at the Black Canyon around noon, and decided to do "Casually Off," a variation to "The Casual Route," a short (~6 pitches, depending on how you look at it) and easy climb. Here's Aaron descending into the SOB gully. The climb is on the lefthand side of the gully less than halfway down. Being idiots, we missed the route and hiked basically all the way down to the river. Ha-ha!
Finally, we started the route. Here's Aaron.
At one point, you have a couple of options on this route. Our options were limited: the straight up variation was soaking wet, and the arching crack variation looked seepy too, so Aaron chose the lower crack to traverse. It was wet in places, too.
The exit gully is the snow-filled chute in the foreground. Aaron tried that, found it too sketchy when wet and snowy, and opted instead to do a couple of easy, but wet, exit pitches.
Looking down into the canyon from one of the north rim overlooks.
Long-armed portrait of the two of us with our scratched faces (mine from skiing in the trees at Heaven's Hill, Aaron's from taking a frisbee in the cheek during Ultimate).
Aaron (with morning hair) taping up for the second day of climbing.
Aaron rappelling into the Cruise Gully.
Aaron on a bushy ledge after the first pitch of "Midsummer Night's Dream."
Amy and Aaron.
Aaron on the better-than-it-looks hand crack near the end of "Midsummer Night's Dream."
Amy topping out after an easy exit pitch on the route.
Aaron checking out the sunset from the canyon overlook.
Amy.
Sunset.
On our last day, we climbed "Checkerboard Wall," a five pitch route with some spicy leads, which Aaron handled nicely. Here he is on pitch 2 (not one of the spicy leads!).
Aaron with gear in mouth, traversing out on pitch 3.
Aaron in the crux dihedral (pitch 4).
Amy coming up pitch 5.
Amy.
Looking across the canyon at "Journey Home." Very tiny in this picture, you might be able to find one guy in a white helmet and not-very-contrasting clothes on this route.
©2008 Amy Jordan; Email Me.